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Moosehead Lake, ME
This past Labor Day weekend was spent with family and friends on the shores of Moosehead Lake in Rockwood, Me. Moosehead Lake is located on the southern end of the wilds of northern Maine. It is the gateway to the Allagash, St. John's, Penobscot, and a host of other rivers. The area is rich in history both in lumbering and recreation. My last visit to this region was May 1999 paddling the St. John's River from Baker Lake to the town of Dickie. Prior to that was in the 60's as a young boy on a family camping trip to Seboomuc. I have vivid memories from that vacation of incredible bugs and riding logs down river through the rapids for entertainment. For this past weekend there were no bugs, we did however have to endure a rather rustic camp/compound establishment. Actually when I say rustic my intent is to be sarcastic but you would only know this had you been to the camp. Rustic describes only the view and its location.
As I lay in bed each evening looking out the picture window at the vast lake in front of me I could not help but dream about the heydays of this region. The lake itself is some 40 miles long and branches out in every direction and shape, somewhat like the head of a moose. There are over 400 miles of shoreline most of it undeveloped and available for camping. This would be a great place for a canoe trip, in and of itself.
The camp has been in existence since the 1930's. You could spend weeks looking at all of the old pictures, books, and misc. artifacts scattered around. I did my best to check them all out, but only after I surveyed the two old canoes stored in the boathouse. What else would you expect?
We arrived about 1am on Saturday morning after a 5-hour ride through some pretty remote territory. At sunrise, or fairly close to it, I was up and in the boathouse. What I found were two 20 ft. EM White canoes circa 1949. One was an original White, the other a copy made by HH Egerly of Atkinson, Me. Both of them in excellent shape. They were neatly tucked away under a tarp in the corner of the barn. Resting in the bottom of one of the hulls were two traditional, hand carved, ash beavertail paddles. As the old Maine saying goes, " nothing beats a good piece of ash". It was obvious neither canoe had been in the water for a while. That was to change soon.
Each wilderness waterway tends to have a specific style of craft evolve over the years to suite its particular characteristics. While many styles and sizes of craft are used, one usually dominates. In northern Maine it is the 20 ft. guide style canoe and they do not get any more classic than the EM White. At 20 ft in length with a wide flat bottom and low bow and stern profile they are designed for hauling large loads. There is no keel and only one seat located in the stern. These were truly the workhorses of the Northern Maine woods. With such a shallow draft and minimal exposure to the wind, they could be easily paddled across lakes and poled up or down river.
With the mist rising of the water, I gingerly slipped one of the canoes into the lake and eased away from the pebbly beach. Kneeling about 1/3 of the way up the length of the canoe and off to one side I spent the next hour in seventh heaven. Modern day materials are nice, however there is something very special about a wooden canoe that cannot be explained and/or replicated by modern technology. It may be physiological and if so, so be it. In the traditional Maine style I postured myself almost facing one side of the canoe. My stroke was a continuous motion during the entire voyage with the paddle never coming out of the water.
After my mourning ride I slipped back into camp for breakfast and a review of all the other neat things lying around. I especially loved the old photos. There was also a camp fishing log. Numerous brook trout, togue, and salmon have been harvested here over the years. In fact we enjoyed a few for dinner our first evening. It does not get any better than this. Thanks, Ben, Karen, and Mike.
Until next time, HAPPY PADDLING!!!
Have a question? I'm happy to answer it - just email me at hpcanoes@gmail.com
hpcanoes@gmail.com
603.667.5112
We specialize in ultralight solutions and offer expertise in canoes and Wee Lassie boats, as well as all the related equipment. Our favorites are Wenonah canoes and Wee Lassie boats. Although we will work with any material we like to get folks set up with lightweight canoes so you can dedicate your time to the joy of being out on the lakes and rivers instead of struggling to move your boat between car and water.
Scott Edwards, "Hemlock Pete" himself, offers you decades of paddling expertise. He is friendly, down-to-earth, and provides superior customer service. You won't find a better, or more pleasant, deal elsewhere.